Valencia is the perfect city for a slow travel city break. Of course, you can tick off the well-known highlights, but you only really get to know the city once you’ve discovered the local spots. And that’s where I’m going to help you. In this slow travel city break guide to Valencia, I’ll share facts, places, activities and tips for Valencia. So, are you curious about what there is to do in Valencia? Read all about it in this blog.
Places and neighbourhoods in Valencia where you can really get to know the city
1. The El Cabanyal neighbourhood
Martí Grajales 4
El Cabanyal is the neighbourhood you’ll want to return to again and again. Not because everything here is perfectly beautiful, but precisely because it isn’t. It was once an independent fishing village on the outskirts of Valencia. It was only later that El Cabanyal was incorporated into the city, but the neighbourhood still retains a character all of its own. You notice it straight away in the architecture. Low-rise houses with narrow façades, wooden doors weathered by the sea air, and colourful azulejo tiles dating back to the early twentieth century.
What makes El Cabanyal special is that the neighbourhood was severely neglected for many years. There were even plans to build a wide road right through the neighbourhood, which would have left many houses empty. Ultimately, residents rose up in protest, and it is precisely because of this that the El Cabanyal neighbourhood has retained much of its old character. Now you can see a lovely mix emerging. Old neighbourhood bars alongside modern wine shops. Retired fishermen alongside young creatives opening small studios. Some façades have been beautifully restored, whilst others look as though they might fall apart at any moment. And that’s precisely what makes it so interesting to wander around here for hours.
2. The Ruzafa neighbourhood
Eixample, Valencia
Ruzafa is a real gem in Valencia. The neighbourhood has become quite popular, but fortunately it doesn’t yet feel like a setting built specifically for visitors. What makes this neighbourhood so charming is the blend of old and new. Here you’ll find Art Deco façades, traditional market halls and small family-run businesses, as well as natural wine bars and bookshops.
It’s a neighbourhood where you don’t necessarily have to do anything. But simply wandering around works really well here. In the narrow streets behind the better-known cafés, older residents can sometimes be seen sitting outside on their balconies, whilst downstairs someone is opening a gallery featuring art and handmade jewellery. That combination feels typically Valencian – modern, but never completely polished. Ruzafa is home to a surprising number of small shops where things are still actually made. For example, you’ll find pottery studios where everything is glazed by hand, or vintage shops full of old Spanish film posters.
A tip from me: have a look at IsseyRoquet ’s Instagram page – she creates unique ceramics.
3. Jardín de Monforte Park
Plaça de la Legió Espanyola
Jardín de Monforte lies right in the heart of Valencia, yet surprisingly few people seem to be truly familiar with the park. And that’s strange, because this is perhaps the quietest spot in the whole city. As soon as you walk through the entrance gate, Valencia suddenly changes completely. The traffic fades into the background and you find yourself walking amongst perfectly trimmed hedges, marble statues and small fountains. The park was originally laid out as a private garden for an aristocratic family, and you can still sense that today. Everything is symmetrical and meticulously designed. What makes this place particularly lovely during a slow travel city break is that nobody is in a hurry here. People read on benches, stroll slowly along gravel paths or simply sit quietly in the shade.
My tip: pick up a treat at Fass Bakery & Café, such as an ensaïmada or a slice of coca de llanda, for example (these are traditional Spanish sweet pastries), and enjoy it in the park.
Activities in Valencia
Av. de Pío Baroja, s/n, 46015
1. Cycling through Turia feels as though the city has been built around a park
If you’re wondering what there is to do in Valencia, then you certainly shouldn’t miss this park. The Jardín del Turia is much more than just a city park. A river once actually flowed through Valencia here, until severe flooding in the 1950s led to the river being diverted. Instead of a motorway, which was the original plan, residents decided the area should remain green. And thank goodness they did, because now there’s a huge park running right through the city where Valencians exercise, go for walks, have picnics and make music.
It sometimes almost feels as though Valencia was built around this park rather than the other way round. Along the way, you’ll pass palm trees, orange trees, skate parks, small cafés and bridges dating from different centuries. And precisely because you hardly hear any cars here, Valencia suddenly feels remarkably peaceful for a big city. A perfect activity in Valencia, then.
2. Albufera: where paella comes from
Parque Natural de la Albufera, Pobles del Sud
Many people tend to stick to Valencia city centre during a city break, but you really shouldn’t miss L’Albufera. This is an activity in Valencia that also gives you a glimpse of history. This nature reserve lies just outside the city and consists of rice fields, small canals and a large, shallow lake dotted with traditional wooden boats. This is where paella originally came from. Not as a luxury dish, but as a simple meal for farmers and labourers who cooked rice over an open fire using whatever was available. And that’s precisely why paella tastes different here. Less geared towards tourists, less overloaded with toppings and much more focused on the rice itself. Slightly crispy on the bottom, full of the flavour of the stock and cooked slowly. Many restaurants set up their tables outside whilst families tuck into lavish Sunday lunches that easily last for hours. And I find that so special – it’s as if nobody here seems to be watching the clock.
My tip: pop into El Palmar restaurant – at this local spot, you can sample traditional paella.
Eating out in Valencia
1. The Almuerzo tradition
Around eleven o’clock in the morning, Valencia changes completely. Bars that seemed empty at first are suddenly full of people tucking into enormous sandwiches as if it were the most natural thing in the world. And to be honest: that’s exactly what it is here. Almuerzo is a sort of second breakfast or lunch that Valencians take very seriously. It’s not a quick snack, but a proper social break in the middle of the day. In simple neighbourhood bars, bocadillos (crispy Spanish sandwiches) appear, filled with: cheese, grilled green peppers, black pudding and so on. Often accompanied by beer, coffee and olives.
Perhaps the best thing about Almuerzo is that nobody is in a hurry. People linger for ages, chatting loudly amongst themselves and happily ordering yet another coffee, even though it’s actually well past midday.
2. You’ll find the best paella at Casa Carmela
Carrer d’Isabel de Villena, 155
One of the biggest mistakes you can make in Valencia is eating paella in a tourist square at nine o’clock in the evening. That’s because Valencians eat paella for lunch. The best places are usually off the tourist trail, often towards Albufera or in quiet parts of Cabanyal. There, you’ll get rice that’s really had time to soak up the flavours. A great tip for dining in Valencia is Casa Carmela. This restaurant has been around since the 1920s and is renowned for its paella, which is still cooked over a traditional wood fire – something you rarely see these days. This gives the rice a slightly smoky flavour. Inside, there’s a lovely old-fashioned atmosphere with black-and-white photographs and wooden features. It feels much more like you’re joining in a Valencian Sunday lunch than visiting a tourist hotspot.
My tip: book a table for lunch and, above all, take your time. A good paella shouldn’t be served in a hurry. If it takes a while, that’s usually a good sign.
3. Natural Wine Bar Dentro
Carrer del Comte d’Altea, 5
From the outside, it looks quite small and quiet, almost as if you might walk right past it. Inside, it’s lit with warm lighting, vinyl records are playing in the background, and the tables are close together. What makes Dentro particularly enjoyable is that you can share all sorts of small dishes here, whilst receiving detailed explanations about natural wines from small Spanish producers.
My tip: be sure to order a variety of small dishes here rather than one large main course. Think creamy burrata with citrus, roasted vegetables or fresh bread with olive oil. Another great thing about Dentro is the atmosphere. Ruzafa really comes to life later in the evening. People stroll through the streets, terraces fill up and you can hear music coming from open windows.
Accommodation in Valencia
Calle Almirante 14
1. Staying in an old palace at Caro Hotel
If you’re looking for somewhere to stay in Valencia that truly feels part of the city’s history, then the Caro Hotel might just be the best choice. This hotel isn’t simply housed in an old building, but in the former palace of the Marquis of Caro. During the renovation, remains of Roman walls were discovered here, and rather than removing them, they were incorporated into the hotel. You literally walk past centuries of history on your way to breakfast.
What I love about this place is that it feels luxurious yet traditional. The rooms feature old wooden beams, natural stone and details that really give the building character. Some rooms still have original walls or centuries-old arches visible in the interior. The hotel is situated in a quiet part of the old town, close to the Turia Gardens, so you can stroll straight into Valencia in the morning without being right in the thick of the hustle and bustle. And, of course, having breakfast amongst centuries-old walls with a cappuccino is just that little bit more impressive.
2. Yours boutique hotel
Calle Cuba 19
Would you prefer something a bit more ‘slow travel’, on a smaller scale and less conventional? Then choose YOURS Boutique Hotel. This family-run hotel in Ruzafa was set up by a Dutch couple who fell in love with Valencia. Wouter and Daphne decided to convert the old laundrette into a peaceful urban oasis. And you can actually feel that the moment you step inside. It doesn’t feel like a standard hotel, but rather as though someone has lovingly created a cosy home where, as it happens, guests are also welcome to stay.
The hotel features a light-filled courtyard garden, terracotta colours and linen curtains that flutter through open windows. Its location in Ruzafa is ideal. You’re right in the middle of local coffee shops, wine bars, small shops and markets, allowing you to get to know Valencia much more quickly than if you were staying solely in the historic centre. Another nice touch: Ruzafa really comes to life in the early evening. People stroll leisurely through the neighbourhood, the terraces fill up, and you can hear music and conversation wafting out onto the street from open windows.
I hope this slow travel city break guide gives you an idea of what there is to do in Valencia. It’s not a city that tries to impress with just the big highlights. It’s actually in the little things. In neighbourhoods where time seems to pass a little more slowly. In long lunches. And in the historic features you see throughout the city. I’m curious to know where you’d go first.
Love,
Fenna
For a relaxed slow-travel city break, I’d recommend at least four days. Valencia isn’t a city you need to rush through. It’s precisely by taking the time for long lunches, leisurely walks and spontaneous stops that you’ll experience the city at its best.
For a slow travel experience, Ruzafa and El Cabanyal – featured in this blog – are particularly lovely neighbourhoods to stay in. Ruzafa is lively, creative and full of lovely cafés and restaurants. El Cabanyal, on the other hand, feels quieter and more local, with the beach always close by. Would you rather be right in the heart of the historic atmosphere? Then Ciutat Vella is a good choice.
Valencia is ideal for walking and cycling. Cycling is particularly popular thanks to the wide cycle paths and the long Turia Park that runs through the city. Valencia also has good public transport links, including the metro, trams and buses.
Yes, absolutely. Valencia is compact, cycle-friendly and many places are easily accessible on foot. What’s more, you’re seeing more and more local concept stores, sustainable accommodation and restaurants that use seasonal produce from the region.
Are you interested in more sustainable city breaks? Then read: Tips for a 72-hour city break in Copenhagen or the Slow Travel City Break Guide to Lille
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