As a non-skier, I was curious: does Switzerland in winter feel like magic to me too? At the invitation of Switzerland Tourism, I boarded the train for the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland. This route proves that you don't need skis for a real winter experience. Ride past lakes, through valleys and over mountain passes. Look out the window and let the scenery tell the story. Travelling by train slows down. That fits Honeyguide perfectly: consciously and mindfully. With the Swiss Travel Pass, you also travel unlimited by train, bus and boat. You switch easily between plans and spontaneous detours.
Day 1 - Monday
Travel from Utrecht to Andermatt
Slowly towards the mountains
A little after six in the morning, I am standing at Utrecht Central Station with my suitcase. We will not only be travelling by train in Switzerland but also travelling by train from the Netherlands. In the Netherlands, you board at Amsterdam Centraal, Utrecht Centraal or Arnhem. From here, you make several stops. Arriving in Basel, we have some time to spare. A great tip for when you are ready for a break is Tibits. This vegetarian and vegan restaurant is a station formula and sits around major railway stations in Switzerland, in Basel right opposite the train station. You scoop up what you like and you pay for the weight of the dishes on your plate. From grilled aubergine to little fritters with jalapeño and sour cream. I really found everything so tasty.
Check-in Radisson Blu Hotel Reussen, Andermatt
Waking up with a view of the snowy mountains
After the long journey, I check in at the Radisson Blu Hotel Reussen. A modern base in the middle of the village, the hotel is known for its spacious rooms, extensive spa and strong focus on sustainability. Radisson Blu Reussen carries Swisstainable Level III, which means the hotel is actively committed to energy efficiency, waste reduction and conscious purchasing. In the evening, we stay at the hotel for dinner in the restaurant. We opt for a classic Swiss cheese fondue. Melting cheese, crusty bread and herbal tea form a warm mountain welcome and mark the start of our winter Grand Train Tour. Leonie from Switzerland Tourism Switzerland and has experienced many a cheese fondue. She tells me a fun fact: "At the bottom of the fondue pan, a crispy crust of cheese forms, which in German is called grossmutter, meaning granny. In many regions, this is considered the tastiest part of the fondue."
Day 2 - Tuesday
Snowshoe hike at Gütsch
Walk the panorama route with a crackle under your shoe soles
After breakfast, we gather in the lobby to take the cable car up to Gütsch. Here starts my first victory of the trip as I am quite afraid of heights. Once at the top of the mountain, it soon becomes clear that Gütsch is also a popular ski resort. But we come to enjoy a different snow activity today. The panorama route is a hiking trail of about three quarters of an hour. We start the hike full of zest but after a few 100 metres it becomes clear that the snow is too deep. Then there is only one thing to do: enjoy a hot chocolate and take in the amazing view of the white mountain peaks. This winter activity suits me just fine!
Lunch at Alp Hittä Nätschen
Mountain hut feeling and food that warms
Before we continue our journey, we stop off at Alp Hittä Nätschen. Here you will enjoy Alpine cuisine at 1800 metres above sea level. From Swiss classics to seasonal produce, everything is made fresh. In Switzerland, they often start with a salad beforehand. But today I start with the soup of the week; a fresh carrot soup with ginger. Really deliciously warming! For lunch, I choose the creamy burrata with mixed tomatoes, red onion and fresh pizza bread. And as icing on the cake, we must try the Cremeschnitte Alp-Hittä. Did you know that this pastry is often compared to the Dutch tompouce?
Journey from Andermatt to Saanenmöser
The Glacier Express route and Golden Pass Express
Today we continue our journey and board the train from Andermatt towards Brig. This stretch follows part of the Glacier Express. Many people think you can only book that luxury panorama train. But there is also a regular train here. You get the same view and also big windows so you don't miss anything. The train passes mountain peaks, icy rivers and bridges. Whereas train travel in the Netherlands is mainly a way of getting around, in Switzerland it feels like an experience in itself. I don't know whether to look left or right. Around every corner, a new impressive winter landscape appears through the large windows. We travel on with a panoramic train experience on the GoldenPass Express. Something special happens here: at Zweisimmen, the train changes from normal track to narrow gauge. In the past, that meant changing trains. Now you stay seated; the train adjusts.
Check-in Les Hauts de Gstaad Golfhotel
Authentic accommodation three minutes from the station
The second hotel where we sleep is the Les Hauts de Gstaad Golfhotel. This hotel carries Swisstainable Level I. The rooms floor warm thanks to the wooden furniture, floors and walls and red checked sofa and chair. This hotel reminds me of a hotel where I once used to sleep with my parents and sister. It feels to me like a truly authentic Swiss experience. When we arrive, it is dark so only in the morning do I see the special surroundings. Wooden chalets and snow-capped mountain peaks. This view never gets boring!
For dinner, another cheese fondue awaits us, but this time at an extra special location. Near the hotel is a wooden chalet where you can feel the real winter atmosphere. The cow bells on the facade complete the experience. And the cheese fondue? That was once again delicious! After a good night, a full breakfast awaited us the next morning with fresh juices, heart-shaped eggs (too cute, right?) and chia pudding.
Day 3 - Wednesday
The trip to Col-du-Pillon and the gondola ride up
A slow world
From Saanenmöser, we travel to Gstaad and then on to Col-du-Pillon. Here, we board the gondola to Glacier 3000. As the trees in the valley grow smaller and smaller, the rocks draw ever closer. I see skiers gliding down extremely steep slopes. But there’s more to experience at Glacier 3000 than just skiing. Glacier 3000 is renowned for its eternal ice and views of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. But there’s also a thrilling activity to try. I’m extremely afraid of heights but decide to walk across the Peak Walk by Tissot, a suspension bridge between two peaks. As I walk across the bridge, I feel the icy wind and snow blowing all around me. Here, for a moment, I really feel small amidst all this Swiss grandeur. Did you know that this is the only suspension bridge in the world that connects two mountain peaks?
Before we head back down, we’re going to have lunch at Botta first. Restaurant Botta was designed by architect Mario Botta. The building feels sleek, almost sculptural. Large windows bring the landscape inside. Here you can enjoy lunch with a fantastic view, and I’m in luck because I’ve got a window seat! My lunch recommendation is the ravioli with truffle and sage butter. It’s absolutely to die for!
A short visit to Gstaad
A hot chocolate on the Promenade
Before travelling to Interlaken, we have some time to explore Gstaad. Gstaad is known as a luxury ski resort and this is reflected in the luxury brands in the shops on the Gstaad Promenade. However, you can make it as luxurious as you like. A stroll through the centre alone is a fun activity. We drink a hot chocolate on a pop-up roof terrace in the middle of the Promenade. We feel like children again for a moment because of the lavish decoration with marshmallows and sprinkles. And then I see one of the sweetest things ever! A Golden Retriever sitting sweetly on the bench of a horse-drawn carriage. This looks like a scene from a Christmas movie!
Journey from Glacier 3000 to Interlaken
GoldenPass along Lake Thuner
We board the GoldenPass Express and travel on to Interlaken. The train glides past slopes and Lake Thuner. Water lies still like a mirror. The landscape here requires no explanation, only attention. Put your phone on silent and let your eyes do the work. After a few hours, Interlaken appears as a hub of adventure, think paragliding, rafting, mountain sports. We are not going to spend much time in the city itself but rather in the beautiful surroundings.
Once we arrive in Interlaken, we check in at Hotel Du Nord. This hotel is a ten-minute walk from Interlaken Ost train station. This makes it the perfect base.
Dine at Restaurant Salzano
Natural alpine cuisine
We end the day in a special way with dinner at Restaurant Salzano, just outside the centre of Interlaken. The kitchen creates alpine dishes with a new twist. Think local, seasonal and creative. Each plate tells a story about the surrounding mountains, forests and lakes around Interlaken. Spices come from the hotel's herb garden and other ingredients from the surrounding area. At the tasting dinner, we enjoyed, among other things, a stew of veal from Grindelwald. And for dessert, an ice cream cake with chestnut. Each dish is equally photogenic and flavourful.
At the end of dinner, owner Sonja drops by our table. She tells us that she had the idea for the restaurant and the hotel from an early age. Balancing body and soul and connecting with nature was at the heart of all her creative ideas. We are offered another glass of Birnel Willi. This local and natural liqueur is made with ripe pears by an acquaintance of hers.
Day 4 - Thursday
A revolving restaurant with a new view every time
Schilthorn, Birg and Mürren
In the morning, we travel to Stechelberg. Here we board the world's steepest cable car to Mürren. It's like stepping into a lift but with large windows and views of the valley. From Mürren, it continues via Birg to the summit of the Schilthorn. The mountain has a film history through James Bond. Restaurant Piz Gloria was the main filming location in the 1969 film On Her Majesty's Secret Service. Now it is a 360° restaurant with panoramic views of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. We slide in for a sumptuous brunch as the view spins by. Each round takes 45 minutes so we get to enjoy distant views no less than twice. And the choice is huge at the buffet. From fresh fruit to the Swiss dish rösti.
A funny detail: if you flush down the toilet, you will hear a clip from the James Bond film!
The Thrill Walk by Birg
Glass floors and rock wall walkways
After lunch, we head back down to Birg for the Thrill Walk. The path leads along perpendicular rock walls with pieces of glass floor. It sounds exciting and it certainly is for someone with a fear of heights. The advantage: you choose how fast you go. I take small steps and keep a tight look ahead. I walk up to the part where the paths turn into sheets of glass. This is enough excitement for me for a while. This activity suits non-skiers perfectly. You get adrenaline, but not via slopes. You get views, but without hard effort. Once back on the platform, I am happy to be stable again. After a drink in the sun, it is time to go down one more stop.
We travel back to car-free Mürren, a mountain village at 1,650 metres. Here we wander past wooden chalets and enjoy the views. Did you know you can also do a sleigh descent here? I really think this is one of the most beautiful spots of the trip. In Mürren, you have 360-degree views of the icy peaks. Together with Inge(@met_the_train_through_europe), I stroll around some shops. Here I find postcards with old promotional prints of places in the area. These go home with me!
Dinner at Restaurant Taverne
Swiss comfort with local ingredients
We end the day at Restaurant Taverne in Interlaken. The cuisine combines traditional Swiss dishes with contemporary flavours. Think locally sourced and prepared with attention. The menu is full of delicious dishes. As a starter, I choose the winter salad with nuts, pickled mushrooms, pomegranate and a dressing with mango, mandarin and rosemary. As a main course, I choose the Swiss Alpine salmon with wholemeal rice, spinach, fennel and lime. Both dishes are incredibly tasty! Thanks to the long wooden tables, stone walls and walls with wine bottles, you feel like you are dining in a wine cellar.
Day 5 - Friday
Travel from Interlaken to Lucerne
The Lucerne-Interlaken Express
Today, we travel on with the Lucerne-Interlaken Express. This is a relatively unknown panoramic route. The train follows Lake Brienzersee, climbs over the Brünig Pass and travels along the Vierwaldstättersee to Lucerne. The scenery constantly changes atmosphere. Water, forest, rock and village. I find the views over the lakes particularly dazzling. When we arrive in Lucerne, we board the bus towards Kriens. From the bus stop, we walk up to the valley station as we are going to climb higher today as well.
Mount Pilatus
The house mountain of Lucerne
At the valley station, we go up to Mount Pilatus, Lucerne's 'house mountain'. You spend 30 minutes in the gondolas for four and then catch another big gondola to the top. Leonie from Switzerland Tourism points out a pretty little chapel we can see on the mountain. Our cameras and phones are pulled out and we wonder if there is a footpath by which the chapel can be reached. In the snow, it is invisible.
Arriving at the top, we start with lunch at Pilatus Restaurant. Guests have been dining here since 1890 and I can understand why. The classic décor and large windows that pull in the landscape make it a nice place. We sit down at a long table and I feel the sun's rays on my snout. Today I go for a traditional dish - veal with vegetables, mushroom cream sauce and spätzli. This is a traditional, soft, egg-rich dough dish made of flour, eggs, salt and water.
Dragons as protectors of the mountain
Viewpoints and breathing works of art
After lunch, we continue our discovery on Mount Pilatus. For centuries, stories of dragons have whispered around Mount Pilatus, just outside Lucerne. According to old legends, mountain dragons lived in the rock crevices and caves of Pilatus. They would not spit fire, but instead were protectors of the mountain. Atop Mount Pilatus, you look out over the Vierwaldstättersee and the surrounding mountains. You can see how the Alps begin here. On one side lies the softer landscape, and on the other side high mountains stand out. As we stand at Viewpoint Oberhaupt, Alpine jackdaws fly around our heads. At least they are not bothered by the altitude.
Until 26 April, you can visit the installation 'Breath with Pilatus' by designer Annabelle Schneider. Video images of the surrounding nature are projected onto the canvas of the installation. The cloud of fabric breathes with you, making you really slow down in the moment. I found this a really special and meditative experience.
Check-in Art Deco Hotel Montana in Lucerne
Elegant rooms above the city
We conclude this trip with a special overnight stay at Art Deco Hotel Montana in Lucerne. The hotel carries Swisstainable Level III, making it not only a very beautiful but also conscious accommodation. The view is even more beautiful in real life than in photos but I tried to capture it for you. And what luxury it is! I start up with an extensive bathing session and then have a cup of coffee on my balcony. I see the sunbeams peeping between the mountain peaks. It's time to head downstairs because we get to have breakfast in the restaurant and this is a big feast. Sweet sandwiches, fresh fruit, juices and oat cappuccinos. This is how I would like to start every day.
Dinner at Mill'Feuille
Local and sustainable ingredients
Before I wake up in Hotel Montana, a fun evening programme is planned. After a walk from the hotel, we arrive at Mill'Feuille restaurant. This restaurant is right on the river in Lucerne's Old Town. Drink locally brewed Schluckspecht beer and sip coffee from Coffea, Switzerland's oldest roaster. And thanks to the natural and sustainable methods of the Bremgarten fish farm, you'll taste delicious and ethically sourced trout here. With this sustainable approach in mind, I chose 'Knusperli'. These trout fillets are fried in panko and served with a salad. Really another super tasty dish! I am so lucky with all these tasty dinners.
LiLu Light Festival
An evening in Lucerne
After dinner, we walk through Lucerne, towards the places where light installations fill alleys and squares. The LiLu Light Festival lights up the city every year in January. Artists from all over the world bring installations to the city centre. As a highlight, we visit the SOUL light show at the Jesuit Church. The walls and ceiling of the church are illuminated with light projections. What a great way to end this evening! This was already the seventh edition of the light festival and I expect it to be scheduled next year in January as well.
The Swiss Travel Pass - Freedom, convenience and sustainable travel in one map
Would you like to travel by train through Switzerland yourself? Then let me give you some practical information. Travel this route extra smoothly with the Swiss Travel Pass. With this pass, you can travel unlimitedly through Switzerland by train, bus and boat. In more than 90 towns and villages, you'll also travel for free on local public transport. In addition, you get access to more than 500 museums. Handy: there are also two apps to help you, such as the Grand Train Tour app and the Swiss Travel Guide. For me, this pass feels like the key to relaxed slow travel.
And don't want to drag your luggage around while travelling? With SBB 's luggage transport, your suitcase will be transported from hotel to hotel for you. This means you only need to travel with a daypack and you are extra flexible on the road.
Hopefully I have managed to inspire you and you will soon go on a train discovery in Switzerland yourself. I promise it will be an unforgettable journey! In any case, I enjoyed this special destination immensely.
Love,
This travel inspiration is made possible by Switzerland Tourism.
Frequently asked questions about the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland
The Grand Train Tour of Switzerland connects a number of iconic panorama trains, including the Glacier Express, Bernina Express, GoldenPass Express, Gotthard Panorama Express and routes along lakes such as Lake Lucerne. Together, they let you see Switzerland at its very best: from high Alpine passes to palm trees in the south.
The entire route covers about 1,280 kilometres. Without stops, it takes about 7 to 8 days, but most travellers take longer to discover places along the way and stay overnight.
You certainly don't have to do the route in one go. The beauty of it is that you can travel the Grand Train Tour flexibly: in parts, with stops, or even spread over several trips. This way, you tailor the pace entirely to your own travel style.
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