Swimming with orcas and whales in the Norwegian fjords

Every winter, between November and January, millions of herring fill the fjords of northern Norway. After a long migration from Iceland to the Barents Sea, they return here to spawn. And where there are herring, there are whales. Orcas, humpbacks, fin whales, sometimes even sperm whales gather in large numbers for what locals call 'the herring feast'. And trust me: you won't see this on this scale anywhere else in the world.

As a child, I used to spend hours watching Animal Planet and National Geographic. Animals have always fascinated me. But to actually experience this... it felt like I had stepped into a documentary myself. Dozens of whales and orcas together in one fjord. It was so surreal that even now I sometimes still think: did this really happen?

Our days on board the MS Virgo actually started very quietly. Breakfast, a tea, and then to the bridge. Peering over the water. Looking for movement - a fin surfacing briefly, a breathing cloud in the distance, or that typical sound of a blowing column.

As soon as there was action, everything went fast. Thermolayers on, drysuit on, absolutely no luxury at water temperatures around four degrees. With small zodiacs, we sailed into the fjords. The wind was freezing cold and bit your face, but the excitement kept everyone on their toes. Because you never know what you are going to encounter. And that made every trip special.

Seeing these extraordinary animals from a boat is one thing. But underwater everything changes. Just before entering the water, I felt my heart pounding. One last check of my actioncam, mask straightened, snorkel on. Slowly I lowered myself into the dark Arctic water. The cold hit immediately; despite the drysuit, I felt the iciness on my face. But after a few breaths, I calmed down. Everything above water disappeared.

And then I heard them. Under water, the sounds of the orcas were surprisingly clear. Clicks, calls, deep tones that carried through the water. It was not scary at all; on the contrary, a kind of peace came over me. Swimming in the icy waters, surrounded by orcas and humpback whales, I felt an intense mix of wonder, gratitude and happiness.

Only when a humpback whale suddenly appears next to you do you realise how enormous they are: eighteen metres long, weighing forty tonnes. You expect something overwhelming, maybe even scary. But the opposite happens. They move slowly, almost elegantly, gliding silently past you.

At this time of year, the sun no longer rises above the horizon. The days consist of twilight: a blue-grey glow between 11:00 and 14:00 that softens the landscape. Where some find the polar night heavy, I experienced it as magical. Sometimes it was so beautiful it felt almost surreal. Mountains glowing softly, snow turning pink and purple, and a silence that was present in the fjords.

One evening, while anchored in a quiet fjord, the northern lights danced above us. Green, violet, moving like curtains of light. What a gift to an already unforgettable trip.

I travelled on my own, but didn't feel a moment alone. On board were 11 other travellers, from all over the world. Some were also travelling solo, others together. We ate together, shared stories, and sometimes just the silence between trips. Experiencing something so intense together immediately creates a bond. The nerves just before entering the water. The adrenaline when an orca suddenly appears right in front of you. These are experiences that connect you, without the need for many words.

Swimming with whales and orcas rightly raises questions about impact. After all, we were in the middle of their habitat during a crucial time in their annual rhythm, and our guides with years of experience and the marine biologist constantly kept this in mind. Orcas with young were always left alone, animals that showed no interest were given space, and we never went swimming after whales and orcas; we let them come to us. That knowledge and care made the experience not only safer, but also more meaningful. You feel very strongly that you are a guest here and that that role carries responsibility.