My boyfriend and I went on a wonderful road trip through Italy this summer. We travelled by car via Germany to Venice and then drove on via Bologna, the hills of Tuscany and Florence to Lake Como. It turned out to be a trip full of colourful streets, fresh pasta, small villages and special places to stay. Of course, we visited some famous cities, but it’s the quieter spots, local shops and unexpectedly delicious lunches that have stayed with me the most. I’d love to take you on a journey with me!
Our first stop: Venice
Staying at Camping Serenissima
After our drive through Germany, we arrived at Camping Serenissima, just outside Venice. The campsite has a small swimming pool, a little restaurant and, above all, a lovely location. A bus stops right outside the entrance, taking you directly to the centre of Venice. A return ticket cost around €3.50, so we were able to leave our car at the campsite. We thought that was ideal, as parking in or around Venice seemed like a far less relaxing prospect.
We stayed in a tiny house. That might sound quite unusual, but it was actually just half a mobile home. We did have everything we needed: our own bathroom, a bed and a small terrace. A simple but perfectly fine place to come back to after a long day in Venice. As was the case throughout Europe, it was incredibly hot, which is precisely why we found it so lovely to stay outside the city!
A day’s walk through Venice
Famous sights and narrow streets
We spent most of our first day in Venice walking around. As far as I’m concerned, Venice is really a city where you shouldn’t plan too much. Of course, there are a number of well-known spots you’ll want to see, but I actually enjoyed wandering aimlessly the most. We walked across the Ponte di Rialto, visited St Mark’s Square and strolled to the Ponte dell’Accademia. From this bridge, you have a magnificent view of the water and Venice’s distinctive buildings.
Still, I found the narrow streets just as beautiful. Sometimes we’d deliberately turn down an alley without knowing where we’d end up. Along the way, we discovered quiet little squares, tiny bridges and lovely views across the canals. In the quiet streets, you rarely come across tourists, and washing hangs out to dry above the streets. There are several quieter neighbourhoods in Venice, including Castello , Dorsoduro and Fondamento Borgo.
Shopping and restaurant tips in Venice
Handmade jewellery and cicchetti
Tip for a lovely shop: The M Venezia. They sell handmade and colourful jewellery made from genuine Murano glass, including rings, earrings and charming charms. All the items are far more original than the standard Murano glass items you find everywhere in the city.
For cicchetti, small Venetian snacks, we went to Ostaria dai Zemei. It’s a lovely spot to try a variety of snacks whilst watching life on the street. Other restaurant recommendations include Al Vecio Marangon, tucked away in a narrow alleyway and serving traditional Italian dishes, and Ristorante Pizzeria Da Alvise. The latter is situated on the waterfront and is particularly beautiful at sunset. The warm evening light, the boats gliding by and the view made for a truly special moment.
By water bus to Murano and Burano
A day on the water
On our second day, we bought a day ticket for the water bus. This cost around €25 per person and gave us unlimited travel for the whole day. From Piazzale Roma, we boarded the water bus to Murano and from there we carried on to Burano. We really enjoyed the boat trip in itself. From the water, you see Venice and the surrounding islands in a completely different light.
Murano and Burano are smaller than Venice, making them lovely to explore on foot. Although it can get quite busy here too, it still felt quieter than in the centre of Venice.
A visit to Murano and Burano
Glass art and colourful cottages
Murano is famous for its glass art. Here, you can visit the glass factory. It’s quite touristy, but it’s great fun if you want to see the process up close. Scattered across the island, you’ll find plenty of shops selling glass jewellery, vases and other works of art. We had lunch at Pizzeria Marlin Ristorante. I chose spaghetti with garlic, olive oil and chilli. It sounds like a simple dish, but it was incredibly flavourful. This was without a doubt one of my favourite pasta dishes of the whole trip. And believe me: we ate a lot of pasta!
Burano is small and, above all, very colourful. We strolled past the brightly coloured houses, browsed various shops and walked along the waterfront. There were quite a lot of tourists, though, who were mainly preoccupied with taking the perfect Instagram photo. It’s a shame, because Burano is actually much more enjoyable when you don’t just take a photo, but really take the time to wander around and look at your surroundings!
Via Bologna to Sotto i Sassi
A short stop in Bologna
After our few days in Venice, we drove via Bologna to our next accommodation. We were just passing through, but of course we couldn’t resist popping into the city for a bit. Whilst we were there, an art market happened to be taking place. There we saw some beautiful ceramics by the local artist Le Framboiser Ceramics. We also popped into the studio of Bifranci Ceramica. I’m a big fan of local pottery, so Bologna was a lovely surprise in that respect.
Staying at Sotto i Sassi
A destination in its own right
At Sotto i Sassi, my partner and I stayed in the old wine cellar, a charming room with thick stone walls that keep it pleasantly cool even on warm days. The original features, such as the wooden beams and stone steps, give the room plenty of character. The accommodation is situated directly beneath impressive rock formations, making the place seem to blend almost seamlessly into the landscape. This fits perfectly with the name Sotto i Sassi, which loosely translates as ‘under the rocks’. The cherry orchard surrounding Sotto i Sassi also adds to the rural and relaxed atmosphere of the place. Strolling amongst the trees and looking out over the green countryside made our stay all the more idyllic.
Dining amongst the cherry trees
Risotto Rosso and green bean salad
Sotto i Sassi has a small-scale bistro with tables in the garden and several small indoor spaces featuring old walls, an open fire and a mix of vintage and modern furniture. Sotto i Sassi’s bistro combines dishes from the Marche and Emilia regions, with a menu that changes with the seasons. I opted for the risotto rosso with tomato, and together we shared a salad with green beans and cherries – a surprisingly fresh combination, and both were absolutely delicious. During dinner, we spotted a deer wandering through the cherry orchard. It hardly gets any more idyllic than that, does it? The bistro is open for dinner on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, and you can also have lunch there on Saturdays and Sundays.
Learn to make pasta like an Italian nonna
Tortellini, tortelloni and tagliatelle
At Sotto i Sassi, my boyfriend and I took part in a cookery workshop. We learnt how to make three different types of fresh pasta. We started with tortellini, filled with pork, mortadella and prosciutto. Then we made tortelloni with ricotta, Parmesan, spinach and nutmeg. Finally, we made tagliatelle with a delicious tomato ragù sauce. Folding the different types of pasta was quite a challenge, but that’s exactly what made it so much fun.
The best moment was, of course, when we got to eat our homemade pasta. After all that kneading, rolling and folding, it tasted even better. Our pasta was prepared with delicious sauces in the bistro, and afterwards we had dinner together in the garden. It was a really great experience!
Tips in the Sotto i Sassi area
A special castle and a swim in a lake
Rocchetta Mattei is a striking nineteenth-century castle with striped towers, Moorish arches and medieval elements, making it look almost like a film set. Inside, we wandered through a maze of colourful halls, staircases and courtyards that Count Cesare Mattei had built from 1850 onwards. Be sure to visit the delicatessen L’Angolo Di Palens too. Here you can enjoy a delicious lunch as well as pick up some tasty souvenirs from the region. On a warm day, Lago di Suviana is a lovely spot for a swim. The lake is set in lush green surroundings and was a wonderful place for us to cool off and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.
Vignola is also a lovely place to visit. At Memento, I found some lovely interior design items and gifts. We picked up a poster featuring hand-drawn cherries by a local artist! An extra nice touch, as this region is famous for its cherries. For an ice cream, head to L’Artigiano Gelateria. Bar Da Giulia is a lovely spot for a sandwich or salad. At Vineola Ristorante Caffetteria, we enjoyed a good espresso whilst admiring the display case full of fresh biscuits and pastries.
Lunch in Castiglione dei Pepoli
An unexpectedly good stop-off
After three days, we drove on towards Tuscany. On the way, we stopped off in Castiglione dei Pepoli and had lunch at Osteria La Portaccia. I ordered ravioli with courgette and courgette flowers. It was truly one of those delicious Italian lunches where everything was just right. Castiglione dei Pepoli is a small mountain village in the Apennines, close to the border between Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany, with a compact centre centred around the old clock tower and Palazzo Pepoli.
Our base in Tuscany
The Olive Suite in Cerbaia
In Tuscany, we stayed at The Olive Suite in Cerbaia. From here, it’s about a twenty-minute drive to Florence and fifty minutes to Lucca. The flat is simple but spacious, clean and air-conditioned. We were particularly pleased with this during those hot Italian days. The Olive Suite is situated in a larger building containing two other flats. As a result, it didn’t feel like a secluded holiday home, but we did have plenty of space and privacy.
The centre of Cerbaia is within walking distance. Its location made the flat a lovely and practical base for us for various trips around Tuscany.
Coffee and food in and around Cerbaia
Pistachio croissants and dining with a view of the vineyards
For coffee and breakfast, we loved going to Bar Pasticceria Gelateria Pimpina, a local spot where villagers drink their espresso at the bar. We had coffee with a pistachio croissant, and as far as I’m concerned, that croissant was the best of our entire trip. For dinner, Ristorante Podere Torricella comes highly recommended. You dine there with a view over the Tuscan countryside, and the dishes themselves were excellent too. I ordered spaghetti with lemon and Parmesan – absolutely delicious! Another great option is L’Unico Ristorante, a charming restaurant with an extensive Italian menu and traditional Italian dishes. The tagliatelle with a cherry tomato sauce is a must-try!
A day in Florence
Through the Boboli Gardens to the city centre
We parked at the Boboli Gardens and walked from there through the gardens towards the historic centre. Along the way, you pass the Ponte Vecchio and Piazza della Signoria, giving you a lovely route that takes in various highlights straight away. Florence is best explored on foot: don’t just look at the famous buildings, but also wander through the narrower streets and take your time to admire the façades and shops.
The Santa Maria del Fiore is definitely a highlight. Find a bench nearby and take your time admiring the colourful façade and enormous dome. For lunch, we picked up a generously filled sandwich at All’Antico Vinaio, which has several branches in the city. Finally, take a photo strip in one of the photo booths: a small and personal souvenir of your day in Florence.
A day in Lucca
Start by walking through the city walls
Park outside the historic centre and walk through the wide, stone city walls into the town centre. It’s also possible to walk along the top of the walls, but we found the walk through the walls even more special. Lucca is compact and quieter than Florence, making it easy to stroll through the narrow streets and pop into shops and outdoor cafés along the way.
Eroica Caffè is a lovely spot for coffee, breakfast or lunch. Head to Bar Caffetteria La Colonna for sandwiches and bruschetta. Be sure to visit the Orto Botanico too, a small botanical garden where you can escape the hustle and bustle for a while. For an original souvenir, I recommend Compagnia Dei Latini, an affordable shop selling Italian pottery and kitchenware. I bought a beautiful bowl with green speckles which we now use to serve our salads.
Villages in the Chianti region
Montefioralle and Greve in Chianti
As well as Florence and Lucca, we also visited Montefioralle and Greve in Chianti. Montefioralle is small but incredibly charming. We strolled through narrow streets between old stone houses and enjoyed the views over the Tuscan countryside. You don’t need much time there, but it’s a lovely place to have a look around.
In Greve in Chianti, much revolves around wine, olive oil and local produce. At La Bottega del Chianti Classico, you can browse and buy all kinds of regional specialities.
From Tuscany to Lake Como
Staying overnight in Maggiana
After three days exploring the area around Florence, we drove on to Lake Como. We stayed at the B&B Alla Torre Del Barbarossa in Maggiana, part of Mandello del Lario. Mandello del Lario is a truly idyllic spot and felt far less touristy than several other places around Lake Como.
The B&B is situated in a beautiful historic setting and has a communal area where you can make your own coffee. Every morning we were served a generous and delicious breakfast. The peace and quiet, the atmosphere and the hospitality made this a truly lovely final stop on our tour.
Mandello del Lario
Relaxing by the lake
Mandello del Lario is a lovely base on Lake Como: lively enough for restaurants and shops, but much quieter than places like Bellagio and Varenna. For a relaxing afternoon, head to Lido di Mandello, where we hired a sun lounger with a parasol for around €15 and lay right by the lake with a view of the mountains. For food, Mamma Ciccia comes highly recommended. You’ll be seated in a charming little square, the staff are friendly and the food is excellent; you can also stay overnight there. Also pop into Picobello Art.Work.Shop, a small shop selling jewellery, scarves and Italian glassware – ideal for a special souvenir.
Day trips around Lake Como
Walking along a gorge and through the most touristy villages
Visit the Orrido di Bellano for a short walk through an impressive gorge, where you’ll walk along footbridges between steep rock faces and alongside the flowing water. It’s particularly nice and cool here on a hot day, and you can easily combine your visit with a stroll through Bellano. Bellagio and Varenna are also lovely places to visit, although both are quite touristy. It’s best to go early in the morning or later in the afternoon to avoid the biggest crowds. In Bellagio, stroll through the narrow streets and enjoy the views across the lake. In Varenna, the promenade along the water is particularly recommended, with its colourful houses and plenty of places to stop for a coffee or a drink.
Our tour of Italy was a lovely mix of famous cities, small villages, peaceful accommodation and, above all, plenty of delicious food. It was the smaller moments that stuck with me the most: sipping espresso amongst the locals, making pasta together, an unexpectedly good lunch and swimming in an Italian lake. After Lake Como, we decided to round off the trip on a relaxed note with two more nights in Colmar, France. It turned out to be a lovely, atmospheric stopover on the way home, making the holiday feel just that little bit longer. Hopefully, you’re feeling inspired for your next trip.
Love,
Frequently asked questions about a road trip through Italy
Yes, travelling by car makes it easy to combine different regions and also visit smaller towns that are less easily accessible by public transport. In larger cities, it’s often more convenient to park outside the city centre and continue your journey from there.
Would you prefer a city break? Read our tips for a city break in Bologna.
Yes, Murano and Burano are great to combine on a day trip from Venice. Murano is known for its traditional glass art, whilst Burano is famous for its colourful houses. You can easily visit both islands by water bus.
Would you like to explore the area between Tuscany and Liguria? We share the most beautiful hidden gems.
A stay just outside Florence is ideal if you want to explore several places in Tuscany. From the Cerbaia area, for example, you can easily visit Florence, Lucca and various towns in the Chianti region.
Mandello del Lario is a lovely base if you want to explore Lake Como without staying right in the thick of the crowds. From here, you can easily take day trips to places such as Bellagio, Varenna and Bellano.
