Until recently, mainland Portugal was uncharted territory for me. A few years ago, I visited Madeira, which I found absolutely stunning. So when I was invited by Hotéis Rurais de Portugal to discover the north of the country, I didn’t need to think twice. It’s a region where wine is produced locally, the natural scenery is breathtaking and the people take their time with everything – including each other.
Accommodation with a story
Rural tourism in Portugal
In northern Portugal, it’s all about rural tourism: a form of tourism that, through genuine hospitality, brings you into direct contact with nature, agriculture and local traditions. During my trip, I stayed in a series of former farms and country houses that have been beautifully restored into unique accommodation.
My most special overnight stay was at Hotel Paço de Vitorino. This stately 16th-century country house is set in the heart of nature and comes highly recommended if you’re looking for an authentic experience. As soon as you step inside, it’s as if you’ve stepped back in time. Everything is authentically furnished, just like a real home, and you’re free to wander around wherever you like. I even slept in a bed that once belonged to the family who lived here for generations.
In the morning, whilst the dew still lay on the fields, I took a walk along the narrow lanes around the estate. I saw hares darting away in the tall grass, whilst in the distance the cows gently nibbled at the fresh hay. The rhythmic jingle of their bells and the chirping of the birds were the only sounds I could hear. This serene morning, combined with the historic atmosphere, made a deep impression on me. For me, this is the essence of Northern Portugal: the luxury of silence.
The art of dining
A table full of Portuguese tapas: Petiscos
If you’re travelling to northern Portugal, there’s one thing you must bring with you: a healthy appetite. Here, gastronomy isn’t just a meal; it’s deeply rooted in the culture. In the town of Chaves, I ended up at Pensão Flávia, an authentic little Portuguese restaurant. We ate petiscos, the Portuguese version of tapas, where the table slowly but surely disappears beneath a sea of little pans. Prawns, spicy chorizo, tuna salad and seafood — the pans just kept coming. “And this is just the starter,” smiled the waiter, as he topped up my glass with local wine once again.
What struck me was that people here really do take their time with everything. There’s no rushing about. Out of politeness, people often speak to you in Portuguese first, before switching to English. The locals are exceptionally friendly and happy to help.
Undiscovered spots
Chaves: a town full of colourful doors
As northern Portugal has not yet been discovered by mass tourism, it is surprisingly peaceful here. No endless queues, no groups of tourists all wanting to take the same photo. Chaves and Ponte de Lima do have a bit more hustle and bustle, but in a charming way. Chaves is a lively yet peaceful little town with colourful doors and charming streets. What’s more, you can relax wonderfully at the Termas de Chaves: hot springs that have been in use since Roman times.
Culture throughout the region
Rota do Românico: a route past countless monuments
Along the way, we came across countless monuments on the Rota do Românico: a route taking in more than fifty churches, monasteries, castles and bridges, built using the region’s characteristic granite.
We also drove through the village of Quintandona in Penafiel, which has a history stretching back over a thousand years and is known for its distinctive combination of slate and yellow granite. The friendly locals told us about the history of their village with obvious enthusiasm. It was here that I first tasted Mijo de Jebo, a cinnamon liqueur traditionally drunk during the Festa do Caldo.
Northern Portugal isn’t a destination that screams for attention. But once you’re there, you’ll understand straight away: the hotels have character, the food is good and the people really take their time with you. Is it for everyone? Probably not. If you’re set on a swimming pool with an entertainment team, you’ll have to look elsewhere. But if you want to enjoy peace and quiet, unique places to stay, good food and wine, you’ve definitely come to the right place.
Love,
Fleur
This content was made possible by Hotéis Rurais de Portugal. Hotéis Rurais de Portugal is a collection of charming rural hotels spread throughout Portugal. Places where you wake up among vineyards, mountains or quiet villages, and where hospitality still feels truly personal. Through their website, you can directly search and book your favourite accommodation: from a charming hotel in the countryside to a quiet base far away from the famous hotspots. This way, you discover the Portugal that feels just that little bit quieter, more local and authentic, with room for nature, culture and real attention.
Northern Portugal is a peaceful, authentic region where nature, gastronomy, local traditions and hospitality take centre stage. The area has not yet been overrun by mass tourism, giving you plenty of time and space to really slow down.
Looking for more tips on Northern Portugal? Read the blog ‘Vinho Verde, green valleys and zip lines: an adventure in Northern Portugal’.
Rural tourism is a form of tourism where you stay in rural accommodation, such as former farms and historic country houses. You come into direct contact with nature, local traditions, agriculture and genuine hospitality.
A top recommendation is Hotel Paço de Vitorino, a stately 16th-century country house set amidst nature. The hotel is authentically furnished and feels like a lived-in family home steeped in history.
Click here for more tips on unique accommodation in Northern Portugal.
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