Suppen in South-West Friesland

When I walk our dog Yfke in shorts and a shirt in the morning, it is still a bit chilly in the Frisian countryside. I might have known it; even on a code-yellow day like this, there is still a pleasant breeze in Friesland. After a nice lap, I pack my things and head out.

I let some air out of the SUP board so I can fold it in half; now it fits exactly in the back of the Mini Cooper! Dog Yfke gets to sit in the front for a while for this occasion. Even though she is an African, she enjoys going out on the water with me. She always stands at the tip of the boat or board, so she can keep a good eye on everything. However, she only swims where her paws can touch the ground, a true Rhodesian Retriever she will never be.

It is already busy when I arrive at the beach in Oudega SWF. People flock to the water to cool off. Even though it is not yet a holiday, there are all young people walking around. Tropical schedule? Oudega Súdwest Fryslân is a small village in the middle of the Frisian lake district, also known as the 'waterland of Friesland'. What is there to do? There are two restaurants, a hair salon, bike rental, boat rental, three campsites, holiday homes and a village shop with a wine cellar. Just outside the village, I live on a farm where the cows have given way to a bed and breakfast.

There are two other Oudega's in Friesland, which is why we always mention the name of our municipality after it. The village is located directly on the water, on the Oudegaaster Brekken to be precise. In winter, you can skate great there if all goes well, but now it's time for sailing, surfing and supping! For me, supping is 100% relaxing and also a good work-out.

With a heavily inflated SUP, I paddle through the village's marina. There are not many boats there now, everyone is apparently already out on the lake to take advantage of the lukewarm east wind. Immediately I have to pass under the little stone bridge by the church, which requires me to bend my knees. But even sitting on your Stand Up Paddle board you can paddle just fine. SUP seems to have flown over from Hawaii via the USA to the Netherlands, where it is now a popular sport.

It is poerbest yn Aldegea Súdwest! = It is good life in Oudega municipality of Súdwest Fryslân!

I paddle along the whisper sailing route from Oudega to Heeg. Between the two water sports villages, dredging took place several years ago, concrete culverts were raised and jetties were made here and there to enjoy the quiet. They also call it the 'Poelenroute', because after this stretch across the narrow canals between meadows, I will emerge on the Idzegaaster ponds leading to Heeg.

In June 2016, this sailing route was opened; it was the first time I had heard of an electric-only route. With this, the Frisian authorities want to promote environmentally friendly sailing with an electric-powered boat, SUP or canoe. A great idea as far as I'm concerned! However, the green 'electric only' signs placed at the entrance to route disappeared within a few months. So you may encounter a diesel-powered sloop on the way.

Don't be afraid of ending up in some kind of Giethoorn. On the entire whisper route today, I encountered no less than one other supper. And a few dead fish.

At the turnoff towards Idzega and Heeg, I turn right towards Gaastmeer. Fortunately, there is a small sign here and there along the route, so you know which way to go as those reed beds all look alike here. Fortunately, I don't have to unfold my water chart all the way. I sup past a farm by the water, see the lambs and cows panting along the reeds. Those poor beasts are hot.... I consider myself lucky on my board.

Then I reach the Ringwiel where I see an old jetty along the shore, where I can rest for a while. Supping is pretty intense. Especially if you have a headwind on open water, like here. A little further on, a wave comes from behind by a passing boat I hadn't seen and.... there goes my balance! I go under, quickly save my sunglasses from going under and clamber back onto my board. Pretty refreshing, though!

I paddle past the village of Sandfirden. It consists of little more than a beautiful little church by the water and a few historic houses around it. Because of its picturesque location, this 1732 church is a popular wedding venue, among locals and non-Frisians alike.

There is a strong current here; it takes me a lot of strength to stay away from the reeds. I am reminded that people here have always battled the water in the past too. In February 1825, for example, there was a big storm surge and much of the northern Netherlands was under water. As the little church was built on the highest point, the local residents gathered here with their cattle to keep their feet dry. Count on the fact that when they returned home, much of their possessions had been destroyed by the washing water.

Lost in thought, I paddle on to the Ategrêft; a wide ditch apparently once dug by a certain Ate. Bizarre to think that this vast landscape of lakes and canals was created by people in the Middle Ages who kept digging to reclaim land and extract peat. Not for nothing is South-West Fryslân one of the twenty National Landscapes of the Netherlands: here you will find a unique combination of agricultural land, nature and cultural history. It is hard to believe that this landscape of lakes and canals was shaped by human hands centuries ago.

I end up on a larger lake; the Vlakke Brekken and start my retreat. Here, and later on the Oudegaaster Brekken, it is pleasantly crowded with all kinds of sailboats and motorboats of all shapes and sizes.

A small island has been created between the two lakes. Beautiful wildflowers grow there; I stop for a moment to rest and look at the waving flowers. What a beautiful spot and all to myself! I look out at a small black windmill in the distance; Doris Mooltsje. Another iconic sight in this area. From here it doesn't seem so far to the village, but the wind has picked up so you have to be a bit sporty to complete this 10-kilometre route. Although, of course, it's nothing compared to a 195-kilometre swimming Elfstedentocht.

As I paddle across the Frisian water, I smell holiday. This lovely smell is hard to describe. Perhaps a combination of water, fish, cut grass, sun cream and a hint of diesel. Satisfied, I step off the beach in Oudega Súdwest Fryslân. Proud to live here. A place with an instant holiday feeling.

Would you like to experience this micro adventure yourself? Set aside a day to drive to Friesland, hire SUP boards or a whisper boat and make the 10-kilometre round trip. Two SUP boards with paddles are available for rent at B&B Under de Wol. Possibly make a weekend of it, complete with private sauna and stargazing after.

Would you like to do something less sporty than supping during your day out in Friesland? Then hire a spacious whisper boat at the Pollepleats in Westhem. This comfortable sloop allows groups of up to eight people to sail right under the concrete culverts on this route.

Best wishes,
Wiepkje

P.S. Honeyguide Wiepkje is a big Fryslân fan, loves animals and being outdoors. Together with her husband Tjeerd and her parents, she shares the stelp farm where her 'beppe' was born and where they now run their B&B Ûnder de Wol.