A winter weekend away in the historic Silberstadt Schoonhoven

You can get your day off to a good start with a coffee at BLOOOT. Tucked away on the corner of the street, this all-day brunch bar looks charmingly compact from the outside. Inside, it’s cool, atmospheric and intimate. BLOOOT’s concept is unpretentious; literally ‘bare’. That means pure ingredients that speak for themselves, absolutely brilliant coffee and matcha. From my round table by the window, glass jars of homemade biscuits beckon to me. A friendly barista recommends her favourite: caramel sea salt with white chocolate. I give in – and have no regrets, because it’s love at first bite. Tip: if you’re combining work with leisure, BLOOOT is a lovely spot to spend hours working on your laptop.

Address: Voorhaven 1

The Veerpoort of Schoonhoven comes into view. The gate is part of the old city wall. An unexpected place to house a studio. This is where I need to take a look. After some fiddling with the medieval door, someone opens it for me. I am greeted by a young woman. Her name is Tessa Tiemessen and she turns out to be the goldsmith of the house.

I walk into a studio where time seems to stand still. On one side are glass showcases with jewellery. The other side is Tessa's workshop. Tools and materials are everywhere and you can clearly see that people do not sit still here. Tessa takes a seat at a workbench. She explains that she recently trained as a goldsmith in Schoonhoven. The workshop in the Veerpoort - which is officially called Masters of Silver City - became vacant and she got a chance. Old crafts also turn out to be of our time. Not stuffy, but fresh and that impresses me.

Would you like to take a look in Tessa Tiemessen's studio? Her door is open Thursday to Saturday from 12.00 - 17.00.

Address: Wal 3

  

It is autumn and early in the day the lights go on in the streets of Schoonhoven. Storefronts with decorated facades invite me to take a look inside. I discover that Schoonhoven is full of local entrepreneurs, each with their own story. Many of them started by young women who made their dream act. These shops and bakeries you don't want to miss during your visit to Schoonhoven:

Delicatessen shop Bij Sophie

In a cosy building on Lopikerstraat, Sophie describes her delicacies in vivid detail, bringing their aromas and colours to life. From far away, the scent of freshly roasted nuts invites you to step inside. There are delicacies as far as the eye can see. Sophie tells me how she used to work in a kitchen and decided to change direction during the COVID-19 pandemic. She now channels her passion for good, hearty food into her delicatessen. Every week Sophie has something new, so do ask about it if you’re curious. I discover the autumn truffles that have just been delivered to Sophie’s shop. “It’s a real treat to sprinkle over your pasta – I prefer to grate it on very generously,” says Sophie. That truffle – and a little bag of mixed nuts – are coming home with me for later.

Address: Lopikerstraat 30

Sweet Ministry

Diagonally opposite Sophie is a small bakery with a green facade and a seating area. Ministry of Sweet Affairs, it says on the window. That sweet is a serious business, I agree, and so I must enter. The bakery smells of cinnamon and butter cake and the counter is well stocked. Here I meet the cheerful Jonne, who together with her husband, opened their sweet ministry not long ago. Besides delicacies, the bakery also sells artisanal sourdough bread and honest local produce. I took home a hefty piece of butter cake. Conclusion: not normally delicious (and a little naughty).

Address: Lopikerstraat 17

Vintage home furnishing shop Pand 96

A few streets away you will find a shop you can't miss from the outside. A red façade with a huge Christmas wreath catches the eye from metres away. This gem is called Pand 96 and immediately shows what it excels at: refurbishing antiques with frills. Think grandmother's cupboard in sky blue or that pharmacy table in magenta. Together with her husband and daughter, owner Hennie gives old furniture a new life. Hennie used to work in the thrift store, she says. Until she started refurbishing antiques herself. The rest is history, because it goes so well that people come from far and wide. Are you also looking for a unique piece of furniture? Then you really should drop by Pand 96.

Address: Koestraat 96

Evening has fallen and I have a booking at the Italian restaurant Forchetta. Inside, it’s already pleasantly busy and I’m immediately charmed by the décor. A dark ceiling with classical ornamentation, paintings in gold frames and black dripping candles give Forchetta a Gothic-chic atmosphere. From our table, we can look into the open kitchen, where the head chef directs his team in Italian. We order prosecco and burrata, and as you’d expect from this kitchen, everything is simple and full of flavour – from the risotto and pasta that follow, right through to the tiramisu for dessert. Be sure to add this restaurant to your list if you’re a fan of authentic Italian dining.

Address: Haven 29

Once a tall tower for storing water, today a heritage site where you can stay overnight. On the edge of the town centre, amongst the houses with red roof tiles, stands a gigantic tower. This Schoonhoven landmark is impossible to miss. The best bit: you can stay there. To reach your accommodation, you climb a few flights of stairs. On the ground floor of the Water Tower, you’ll find two compact bedrooms and the bathroom facilities. If you climb another flight of stairs, you’ll find yourself in the living room, where tall windows suddenly offer a 360-degree view over Schoonhoven. On the north side, boats glide peacefully past on the River Lek. Turn a quarter turn, and you’ll see the Grote Kerk and the narrow streets of the old town centre. From the outside, the water tower looks as though it’s straight out of Harry Potter. Inside, the décor is sleek and modern. My favourite moment of this night in the water tower? The sunrise. From a comfortable armchair, with a warm cup of tea, watching the light slowly break in the distance. A relaxed start to a new day exploring Schoonhoven.

Tip: if you’re travelling by car, you can park for free in the surrounding residential area.

Address: Watertoren 25

What could be better than waking up to a hearty breakfast? Think fresh juices, fruit and a generously filled slice of bread. When I walk into Lien’s in the morning, the place is already buzzing. Ladies enjoying high tea, friends having coffee; Boutique Café Lien is a place to come together. I meet the friendly Anne-Line (Lien), who’s hard at work behind the espresso machine. This young entrepreneur comes from a local family of bakers and, after years of working in the hospitality industry, has started her own café. Ibiza-chic, incredibly cosy, and the breakfast leaves you wanting more.

Address: Haven 43

Women practising the age-old craft of blacksmithing. I am a fan. In my search for even more women with hands on the forge hammer, I stumbled upon Goldsmithery Fine and Heavenly Gold. Two studios - those of Anoek Huisman and Mariëtta van Bokhoven - under one roof. Walking in the door of the studios is like walking into an old library. But instead of books, only gold shines in the displays. Goldsmith Mariëtta sits at the front of the studio with two guests. They are discussing the design of a gold ring she will customise for them. I am welcomed by Anoek and get to look around her workshop with her. Her style is elegant and timeless.

The Night of Silver

“I’m making a charm for the chain of office that the mayor wears during the Night of Silver,” she explains as she works with her blowtorch. It’s a special tradition, in which many local blacksmiths take part, and which takes place every two years. During the Night of Silver (on 14 December 2024), many workshops are open to the public in the evening. New collections are unveiled, live demonstrations take place, and the city centre is open for some romantic Christmas shopping.

Address: Fijn en Hemels Goud Goldsmith’s Workshop, Varkensmarkt 4

On the corner of the street towards the Veerpoort is the smallest lifestyle department store for miles around: LOIC. A playful concept store run by none other than Loic himself. Former musician in the military orchestra, today barista in his own shop. While Loic makes cappuccino, I nose through the shelves. There is everything from 'Pussy' cards and crazy Christmas baubles, to ceramic cups and flamboyant vases. Loic is anything but beige. In cold weather, drink your coffee - with macaron, of course - at a little bar behind the window. In silence with a newspaper or while chatting with the locals. This concept store adds colour to a grey day.

Address: Toll 12