Tips for a road trip along the Frisian eleven cities
Every year, everyone waits in suspense: will Friesland be the lucky one this time? Will there really be an Elfstedentocht? But, what does it really matter? Do you really need the freezing cold as an excuse to visit the Frisian eleven cities? I don't think so. In fact, I no longer wait for the Eleven Cities Tour and just organise my own Eleven Cities trip. And I'm now going to tell you why you should too
1. Leeuwarden
Leeuwarden is the beating heart of Friesland, with a tower that is even more leaning than that of Pisa. The ideal base to the rest of Friesland, but for now the first stop on our Elfstedentrip itinerary. The city itself feels historic, with canals, mansions and monuments (Chancellery Voorm!) scattered in various locations throughout the city. My advice is to set aside a day for Leeuwarden anyway, and if they have an interesting event (which is often), do two.
Do
- Fries Museum and/or Natuurmuseum Fryslân
Leeuwarden is a true city of culture with a number of interesting museums, such as the Fries Museum (my favourite) and Natuurmuseum Fryslân. The Fries Museum takes you into Frisian history and regularly has exhibitions worth seeing. Think for instance about the story of Saskia (Rembrandt's wife) or the history of Vikings in Leeuwarden. If you go by the Fries Museum, check in advance which exhibitions are current.
If you have a chance, this is my secret tip for Leeuwarden. My favourite way to discover a city is through a guided city walk. Now in Leeuwarden they have beautiful canals there, with a gondolier. For a moment, I imagine myself in Venice, but without the thousands of photographing tourists. The gondolier's loud singing gives way to a story about the city. You don't experience this every day.
Food
At this waterside restaurant, you can enjoy a ‘taster holiday’. You’ll be eating and drinking in a former prison that’s been transformed into an atmospheric dining venue. A unique local spot with a great ethos. This restaurant is committed to zero waste, and that makes me happy.
Sleep
-
In town at the Post Plaza Hotel
You stay overnight at Post Plaza Hotel in the old post office in the city centre. One thing is for sure, in this hotel they have thought about every detail, from teaspoon to bedside lamp, from pillow to coffee cup and from employee to television. An ode to the postman.
- Outside the city at Weidumerhout
Getting up with a 180-degree view of the meadows in sustainable cube. Sounds like my cup of tea. About 6 kilometres outside Leeuwarden, it is quiet and you have all the space you need. So if, like me, you can enjoy rural living, this is the place to be.
2. Sneek
Sneek, or 'Snits', is centrally located in the lake district and is therefore popular with water sports enthusiasts. If, like me, you have always wanted to learn to sail, this city is the place to do it.
Food
A 150-year-old courthouse in Birgitte Bardot style from the 1950s. There are crazier combinations, but this one strangely enough works very well. The fact that the tapas are very tasty certainly plays a part too.
The most special locations are often not to be found in the most obvious places. Such as Picknickers in Teherne (20 km from Sneek). This rather hip food bar on the Sneekermeer lake feels like a shabby chic beach bar without sand, with a focus on sustainable and organic food and drink.
3. IJlst
This small town (only 3,200 inhabitants) is mainly known for its water sports and was once big in trade and shipbuilding because of its strategic location on the water. Here, the Frisian flag hangs for most of the year and residents are proud of their heritage. A pit stop of several hours is well worth IJlst, if only to see the gardens along the Eegracht canal.
Do
At the Fierljep ramp in IJlst, they offer a piece of authentic Frisian culture: Fierljeppen. Despite knowing in advance that I am a disaster at this, I still want to give it a try. Because who knows, maybe I will discover a hidden talent during the two-hour clinic. If not, I will most probably be wet.
4. Locks
If you thought IJlst is small, think again. In fact, Sloten takes the national crown as the smallest town in the Netherlands. As the cliché goes, small in this case is also nice, because thanks to the old walls, ramparts and canals, the town has a cosy and pleasant atmosphere. Many call Sloten the prettiest town in Friesland as well as the smallest. If you don't spend the night here, a few hours is enough to discover Sloten.
Do & Sleep
On the Slotermeer, the pavilion barge (a historic sailing cargo ship) floats in the harbour. If you really want to experience the essence of Friesland, you can't beat a sailing trip. Led by the skipper, you will sail the Frisian waters on the tjalk 'Het Wakend Oog'. First, the skipper will lead you on a trip across the Frisian waters, after which he will anchor the ship in the evening and you will have the ship all to yourself until the next morning.
5. Stavoren
Once you arrive in Stavoren, the IJsselmeer encloses you from three sides. This town in south-west Friesland was the very first community in the Netherlands to obtain city rights, with the lady of Stavoren as its most famous inhabitant. The legend of the lady of Stavoren tells that this rich merchant's widow once sent a sailor out on the water to find for her the most precious commodity in the world. When he returned with grain, she ungratefully threw it into the sea. An old man who witnessed this scene told her she would be punished for her pride. Whereupon the woman threw her gold ring into the sea as a gesture of disbelief. Something that eventually became her downfall. In honour of the lady of Stavoren, a statue of this woman stands in the harbour, with a hand over her eyes, gazing at the ships.
Do
The seahas not been kind to the once-rich Hanseatic city of Stavoren. Floods, sea trade wars, the harbour the silted up all caused poverty in the once wealthy town. The Fish Fountain tells the story of Stavoren as a city that rebuilt itself each time after these misfortunes thanks to seafaring and fishing.
Food
Morethan 400 types of whisky and a lot of love for the trade. At De Koebrug, they also work with local ingredients as much as possible and make their own home-smoked products, chutneys and whisky liqueurs.
Sleep
Hotel De Vrouw van Stavoren is located in the old port of Stavoren, where you can spend the night in original Swiss wine barrels. Just that bit different.
6. Hindeloopen
Just a 20-minute drive from Stavoren (easy to combine) is the sixth city of the Eleven Cities Trip: Hindeloopen, or Hylpen as the Frisians call it. If you thought you could understand Frisian, you will be disappointed here. The people of Hindeloopen speak a strongly deviant and conservative dialect with many medieval vowels and Old Frisian words. Those interested in the history of skating and the Elfstedentocht can visit The First Frisian Skating Museum here in Hindeloopen.
Do
This small private museum contains the complete history of the Eleven Cities Tour. The world's largest ice skate is also on display here. Nice to have seen for a while, you've experienced that too.
7. Workum
The large number of old facades and monuments makes this small town an attraction in itself. But if you really want to take in Workum, I would definitely recommend taking in the surrounding nature during a walk. Or even better: rent a bike and tour the Frisian IJsselmeer coast in an afternoon.
Sleep
In a former post office, you stay in luxury and design. On the ground floor of the building, under the room you sleep in, hang several textile prints made by new Dutch masters. Something to talk at length about over breakfast.
8. Bolsward
My favourite spot in Bolsward has to be the Boerekerk. This hidden gem is so photogenic and has a tragic past. This former monastery was destroyed by fire several times, but was revived by architect Jelle de jong, who sealed the ruined open roof with glass. Now back in function, it is the only church without benches or chairs and with a glass roof. Bolsward is one of my favourite of the 11 cities and to really get to know this place, I recommend spending a night here.
Do
Take a guided tour at this Frisian brewery and distillery that uses only local raw materials to make its typical drinks. In fact, the entire beverage production process is set up in such a way that the brewery controls the entire process from farmer to consumer.
Sleep
Every now and then I could do with a little reflection. Back to basics. Spending the night at Het Kleine Paradijs lends itself well to this. Think tiny houses, tree houses and also retreats (if you really need some peace and quiet).
9. Harlingen
Harlingen is one of the larger of the eleven cities and is particularly important because of its port. The city centre is characterised by more than 600 monuments, including warehouses and canals. If you have some extra time to spare, I recommend venturing out from Harlingen to the Wadden or to Pieterburen. Because an afternoon of mudflat hiking does people good (and seeing seals too, for that matter).
Do
The Pieterburen Seal Centre is one of the reception centres for seals in the Netherlands. Here, sick and weakened seals of all ages are taken in and treated, only to be released back into the Wadden Sea. Something you as a visitor can attend once in a while. You do have to book this in advance and places go fast. I recommend keeping an eye on the website and/or signing up from the newsletter.
Sleep
At Dromen aan zee you sleep in the Harlingen lighthouse. Romantic, unique and absolutely a room-with-a-view.
10. Franeker
Franeker is one of the major cities in this tour. Thanks to the world's oldest working planetarium: Royal Eise Eisinga Planetarium. A home-made solar system in the attic of Eisinga's old house built to scale in 1773. And despite the planetarium attracting quite a few tourists, this spot is still my favourite in the city. While strolling through Franker, also walk past the courtyard with the old university buildings, the old monastery (later the largest insane asylum in Friesland) and the Hortus Botanicus.
Do
You can hardly imagine it any more, but it used to be quite normal to keep the enemy out of the city with defences. Today, the Bolwerken still houses four old tea houses from the 18th century. Back then, tea was a new, exclusive drink and drinking was made into quite a ceremony. During the summer months, the Bangatheekoepel is regularly open in the afternoon, allowing visitors to have a cup of tea in this special place.
Sleep
Sleeping in Franeker is most fun in the city's smallest canal house. You're in the heart of the city centre and have a view of the Korendragershuisje during breakfast. Win,win.
11. Dokkum
The last city of the Elfstedentrip is Dokkum. The famous town where Boniface found his waterloo in 754 is full of small shops and unusual boutiques. So ideal to pick up a souvenir to immortalise this road trip with. And what better way to end your trip than with an authentic Dutch herbal bitter in the original Beerenburg factory.
Do
The canals in Dokkum lend themselves to boating, so hire a kayak together and paddle a relaxing round past monuments, windmills and historic buildings.
Sleep
An eco-friendly glamping where you stay in wooden corner cottages called Trek-In's. Just outside Dokkum and in the middle of the Kollumerpom meadow.
So, eleven cities with my favourite spots. This was my guide to a different kind of week away. As you have long since understood, the story of the eleven cities goes far beyond the journey of the tours.
With love,
Amanda